Seattle-area summers are dry, with July and August usually bringing little rain. Lawns need about an inch of water a week to stay green, or they can go dormant and recover in fall. Water early or late, deeply and less often, zone lawn and beds separately, and use drip for beds. Washington requires irrigation backflow assemblies to be tested yearly by a certified tester, and rebates vary by utility.
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Seattle's reputation is rain, but anyone who has watched a lawn turn tan in August knows the other half of the story. Most of the region's rain falls from fall through spring, and midsummer is usually very dry, often with weeks of little or no rain. That means yards that need drainage in January need water in July. This guide covers how much to water, what area utilities ask of customers, whether a sprinkler system makes sense, and the rules and rebates that apply.
How dry does it get?
Seattle's wet season typically runs from about October through April. Late July and early August are generally the driest stretch of the year. In a typical summer, rain alone won't keep a lawn green or new plantings alive. Established native trees and shrubs are adapted to this pattern, but even they can struggle in an unusually hot, dry summer.
What your water utility asks
The Seattle area is served by many water utilities. Seattle Public Utilities supplies Seattle and, as a wholesaler, many neighboring cities and districts, and works with them through the Saving Water Partnership. Tacoma Water, the City of Everett and a number of Eastside districts and cities run their own systems. In a normal year, most of them don't set mandatory watering days; instead they ask customers to use water efficiently:
- Water early in the morning or in the evening to reduce evaporation.
- Water deeply and less often, letting soil dry between waterings.
- Give lawns about an inch of water a week, counting rain, if you want them green.
- Or let the lawn go dormant and water about once a month so it recovers in fall.
In a dry year, utilities can ask for voluntary or required reductions. Rules and requests change, so check with the utility that bills you each summer.
Green lawn or dormant lawn?
Cool-season lawns in western Washington can go dormant in summer and green up when the rains return. A dormant lawn isn't dead; the crowns survive if they get occasional deep water. Keeping a lawn green all summer uses much more water and money. Either choice is reasonable. What's hard on grass is letting it go dormant, then watering it back to green, then letting it go again. Many homeowners compromise by keeping a smaller lawn area green and letting the rest rest.
Does a sprinkler system make sense in Seattle?
It depends on what you want to keep alive. New plantings and sod need steady water through their first one or two summers, and vegetable gardens need it every year. A permanent system makes the most sense for lawns you want green and for large beds. Drip irrigation on a timer is efficient for beds, shrubs and food gardens. For a yard planted mostly with established natives, hand watering during establishment and occasional deep soaks in drought may be all you need.
Designing for Seattle conditions
- Zone by plant type and exposure. Lawn, beds, sun and shade each get their own zones.
- Use drip in beds. It puts water at the roots and avoids wetting foliage.
- Match the soil. Dense till soils take water slowly. Rotary nozzles and cycle-and-soak schedules reduce runoff.
- Start late, stop early. Most systems don't need to run until well into summer and should shut off when the fall rains begin.
- Use a smart controller. EPA WaterSense labeled controllers adjust run times to weather.
Backflow prevention rules
Any irrigation system connected to a public water supply needs a backflow prevention assembly so lawn water, fertilizer and soil can't be drawn back into drinking water lines. Washington Department of Health rules require these assemblies to be tested when installed and every year after by a state-certified backflow assembly tester. Your utility typically sends a reminder and tracks the results; Seattle Public Utilities runs its own backflow testing program, and other utilities such as Renton's cross-connection control program do the same. Budget for the annual test when you add a system.
Who should install it
Washington's contractor registration rules include an irrigation sprinkler systems specialty, and the landscaping specialty includes residential lawn sprinklers without pumps. Ask for the installer's L&I registration, a certificate of insurance, and whether they are a certified backflow tester or work with one. Any trenching requires a Washington 811 locate at least two business days ahead.
Rebates and assessments
The Saving Water Partnership has offered rebates for irrigation efficiency upgrades, such as weather-based controllers, rain sensors, efficient nozzles and drip conversions, along with free irrigation assessments. Those programs have been aimed mainly at commercial and multifamily properties, and offers, amounts and funding change. Homeowners should check savingwater.org and their own utility for current options before counting on a rebate. Separately, in eligible parts of Seattle, the RainWise program has offered rebates for cisterns and rain gardens, which can also supply some summer garden water from stored roof runoff.
Cutting summer water use
- Replace lawn in hard-to-water strips and slopes with drought-adapted natives or groundcovers.
- Mulch beds a few inches deep to hold moisture.
- Build deeper, compost-amended soil that stores more water.
- Fix leaks and broken heads early in the season.
- Mow lawns a bit higher in summer so roots stay shaded.
What affects the cost of a system
The main cost drivers are the number of zones, total area, how far lines run from the water service, trenching through till and cobbles, restoring lawn after trenching, the controller and sensors, the backflow assembly and its annual testing, and seasonal startup and shutdown service. Get itemized quotes that show the zone layout and head types so you can compare.
Bottom line
Seattle yards need water in summer, but often less than people expect, and some can do without once established. Decide what really needs to stay green, use drip where you can, follow your utility's guidance, and keep the backflow test current. When you're ready, learn about irrigation services or request an irrigation company.
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Frequently asked questions
How much should I water my lawn in a Seattle summer?
Seattle Public Utilities says lawns need about an inch of water a week in summer, counting rain, to stay green. Water early or late in the day, deeply and less often. Or let it go dormant and water about once a month.
Is my backflow test really required every year?
Yes. Washington Department of Health rules require backflow assemblies to be tested at installation and annually by a certified tester, and your water utility tracks the results.
When should I turn my sprinklers on and off in Seattle?
Most systems don't need to run until summer has turned dry, often well into June, and should be shut off once steady fall rains return. A smart controller adjusts automatically.
Sources and further reading
- Washington State University Extension
- WSU Extension: Fine fescue for home lawns (FS200E)
- USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
- Washington L&I: Register as a contractor
- WAC 296-200A-016: Contractor specialty definitions
- Washington State Department of Agriculture: Commercial applicator license
- Seattle Public Utilities: Backflow assembly testing
- Saving Water Partnership
- King County: RainWise
- Seattle SDCI: Environmentally Critical Areas code
- Seattle SDCI: Trees and codes
- King County Noxious Weed List
- Washington UTC: Call 811 before you dig
- Washington Department of Ecology: Tacoma Smelter Plume
- City of Redmond: Wellhead protection
- EPA WaterSense